how to tell if your jewelry is gold

One of the easiest ways to tell if a piece of jewelry is gold or not is to look for a stamp (10K, 14K, 18K, 22K, 24K).

In a perfect world, all gold jewelry is marked with a big, bright 14K stamp. In the real world, there are hard-to-read stamps, stamps that mean gold-plated, stamps that are fake…and the list goes on.

Here are a few stamps which signify the piece is NOT gold:
  • 14K 1/20 (1/20 gold is basically gold-filled)
  • 14K G.F. (gold-filled)
  • 14K G.P. (gold-plated)
  • 14K H.G.E. (hydrostatic gold electroplating)
  • 14K G.E.P. (gold electroplating)
  • .925 (sterling silver)

Anything with one of these stamps is not gold. It is made out of a different metal with a very thin gold layer that will wear off over time. These pieces do not have any real metal value and most gold buyers won’t purchase them from you (with the exception of sterling silver).

Stamps that mean your piece IS gold:
  • A plain 14K stamp
  • 14K P (The “P” stands for plumb gold)
  • 14K with a company logo after such as 14K <3
  • 417 (10K, means 41.7% gold)
  • 585 (14k, means 58.5% gold)
  • 750 (18K, means 75% gold)
  • 917 (22K, means 91.7% gold)
  • 999 (24K, means 99.9% gold)

That being said, even if your piece is stamped “14K” you cannot be 100% sure it is gold. There are a number of fake stamps out there and the only way to be 100% sure is to test the metal with a gold tester using nitric acid. On the other hand, even if there is no stamp it could still be gold.

Aside from the stamps or lack thereof, there are a couple other ways you (or most likely a jeweler) will be able to tell if the piece is gold:

  1. If the piece is tarnished or discolored in a way that’s not typical of gold (certain gold can discolor)
  2. By the weight (gold is very dense and therefore it should weigh more than any other non-gold piece its same size)

Hopefully this helps you sort out the shoebox full of jewelry that you just inherited. ;)

 

 
cushion cut ring

You’re probably thinking, “What?? I love cushion cuts and there’s nothing wrong with them because they’re beautiful!!!”

Relax.

The cushion cut diamond (also known as pillow-cut diamond) is a very unique and beautiful stone. A cross between vintage and modern, the cushion cut has been popular for over 300 years.

The “Problem” With Cushion Cuts

The “problem” with cushion cut diamonds (and something most jewelers don’t tell the customer, or don’t know themselves) is that the majority of them are cut from undesirable diamond rough. In other words, the rough they would rather not use to cut a round, princess, or any other more desirable fancy shape diamond. They’re often cut shallow and suffer from a severe lack of brilliance because of this. Who cares about the VS clarity and D color if it doesn’t sparkle??

The Regent Diamond

One of the world's largest cushion cut diamonds (141 carats) - The Regent. It is also one of the most well cut stones ever produced.

Remember, I said the majority are poorly cut stones. There are good cushion cuts, and there are a lot of bad ones. This is why the prices for cushion cuts are usually 25-50% lower than round brilliant diamonds.

When looking for a cushion cut, it’s very important to find one that is really well cut. Brilliance is really the most important aspect of any diamond. I do not recommend buying a cushion cut diamond without seeing it in person first. Also, remember that ANY stone is going to have SOME sparkle to it when it’s under the lighting system of a jewelry store and perfectly clean. Take it into natural daylight and make sure you still see a good amount of brilliance, as it will decrease some when the stone gets dirty.

Choosing the shape of your Cushion Cut

Cushion cuts actually come in a variety of different shapes, from square cuts that look like a princess with rounded corners, to very rectangular cuts that look like a squared oval cut.

If you are looking for a cushion cut diamond that’s more square in shape, choose one with a length-to-width ratio of 1-1.05.  For one that’s more rectangular I suggest a length-to-width ratio of 1.20 to 1.30.

 

Not all rings can be re-sized. Some eternity rings and vintage rings may only be sized a small amount, or not at all.

 

What is a chocolate diamond? Chocolate diamonds are a different name for brown, or cognac colored diamonds. However, many chocolate diamonds are lower quality.

 

Buying a certified diamond can serve as a safeguard against fraud. However, wholesalers and retailers can use certificates to mislead consumers as well.

 

Diamond prices vary a LOT depending on the quality. There’s a way to know if you’re getting the RIGHT price on a diamond. Don’t just read the certificate.

 

Are diamonds a good investment? Not really, unless you’re looking for a luxury item that will hold its value. Diamonds remain valuable in today’s economy.

 

How much does a normal ring sizing cost? Prices for ring sizing vary. Make sure you take it to a good jeweler that performs quality repair work or else…

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