In a perfect world, all gold jewelry is marked with a big, bright 14K stamp. In the real world, there are hard-to-read stamps, stamps that mean gold-plated, stamps that are fake…and the list goes on.

Here are a few stamps which signify the piece is NOT gold:

• 14K 1/20 (1/20 gold is basically gold-filled)
• 14K G.F. (gold-filled)
• 14K G.P. (gold-plated)
• 14K H.G.E. (hydrostatic gold electroplating)
• 14K G.E.P. (gold electroplating)
• .925 (sterling silver)

Anything with one of these stamps is not gold. It is made out of a different metal with a very thin gold layer that will wear off over time. These pieces do not have any real metal value and most gold buyers won’t purchase them from you (with the exception of sterling silver).

Stamps that mean your piece IS gold:

• A plain 14K stamp
• 14K P (The “P” stands for plumb gold)
• 14K with a company logo after such as 14K <3
• 417 (10K, means 41.7% gold)
• 585 (14k, means 58.5% gold)
• 750 (18K, means 75% gold)
• 917 (22K, means 91.7% gold)
• 999 (24K, means 99.9% gold)

That being said, even if your piece is stamped “14K” you cannot be 100% sure it is gold. There are a number of fake stamps out there and the only way to be 100% sure is to test the metal with a gold tester using nitric acid. On the other hand, even if there is no stamp it could still be gold.

Aside from the stamps or lack thereof, there are a couple other ways you (or most likely a jeweler) will be able to tell if the piece is gold:

1. If the piece is tarnished or discolored in a way that’s not typical of gold (certain gold can discolor)
2. By the weight (gold is very dense and therefore it should weigh more than any other non-gold piece its same size)

Hopefully this helps you sort out the shoebox full of jewelry that you just inherited.

Relax.

The cushion cut diamond (also known as pillow-cut diamond) is a very unique and beautiful stone. A cross between vintage and modern, the cushion cut has been popular for over 300 years.

The “Problem” With Cushion Cuts

The “problem” with cushion cut diamonds (and something most jewelers don’t tell the customer, or don’t know themselves) is that the majority of them are cut from undesirable diamond rough. In other words, the rough they would rather not use to cut a round, princess, or any other more desirable fancy shape diamond. They’re often cut shallow and suffer from a severe lack of brilliance because of this. Who cares about the VS clarity and D color if it doesn’t sparkle??

One of the world's largest cushion cut diamonds (141 carats) - The Regent. It is also one of the most well cut stones ever produced.

Remember, I said the majority are poorly cut stones. There are good cushion cuts, and there are a lot of bad ones. This is why the prices for cushion cuts are usually 25-50% lower than round brilliant diamonds.

When looking for a cushion cut, it’s very important to find one that is really well cut. Brilliance is really the most important aspect of any diamond. I do not recommend buying a cushion cut diamond without seeing it in person first. Also, remember that ANY stone is going to have SOME sparkle to it when it’s under the lighting system of a jewelry store and perfectly clean. Take it into natural daylight and make sure you still see a good amount of brilliance, as it will decrease some when the stone gets dirty.

Choosing the shape of your Cushion Cut

Cushion cuts actually come in a variety of different shapes, from square cuts that look like a princess with rounded corners, to very rectangular cuts that look like a squared oval cut.

If you are looking for a cushion cut diamond that’s more square in shape, choose one with a length-to-width ratio of 1-1.05.  For one that’s more rectangular I suggest a length-to-width ratio of 1.20 to 1.30.

Let’s take a look at different ring styles and their sizing issues.

Eternity Rings

Rings with diamonds or other stones going all the way around the band cannot be re-sized. Instead, a new ring must be made. If you’re looking for an eternity-style ring it’s important to get one with a small amount of blank space at the bottom of the shank. This way a jeweler will be able to make small adjustments if necessary.

Never buy an eternity ring unless it is being made to your exact finger size.

Vintage and Pave Rings

There are a lot of vintage-style and pave-style rings (those with lots of small diamonds on the band) that can only be sized so far. The issue lies in the number of tiny diamonds stretching down the sides of the ring. Many of these rings can only be sized up or down about one size, or a little more. It is usually easier to go up in size rather than down.

Before purchasing this style of ring, make sure you have an accurate finger size, or at least a very close estimate.

Mens Wedding Bands

A lot of men’s wedding bands have patterns going all the way around the ring. With most bands, a jeweler will be able to “press” the band up or down about a size (in other words they don’t have to cut the ring to take a piece of gold out, or put one in). If the ring has to be cut in order to go up in size, a jeweler may not be able to duplicate the pattern on the piece of gold that was added. If it’s cut to go down in size, the pattern may not line up at the sizing seam exactly like it did before.

A lot of mens wedding bands made are being made with contemporary metals like Tungsten, Titanium, Stainless Steel, Ceramic, and  Cobalt. These rings CANNOT be sized.

White Gold Rings

When you’re having a white gold ring re-sized, remember that most all white gold has a plating on it called rhodium. When a ring is sized, some of the rhodium is taken off by heat after the sizing seam is soldered. Therefore, the ring must be re-plated with rhodium and this can be an extra charge in addition to the sizing cost.

Platinum Rings

In the case of platinum rings, they usually cost more to be sized. Platinum is more expensive than gold (if you’re going up in size and need to add a piece), and it’s also a much more difficult metal to work with. Basically, it takes longer. Time = Money.

The term “Chocolate Diamond” is simply a marketing phrase coined by the jewelry manufacturer Le Vian. Chocolate diamonds are another type of brown, or cognac colored diamond.

There are natural brown diamonds, and there are those that have been color treated. Natural colored diamonds are always going to be more expensive than those that have been color treated.

Are Chocolate Diamonds less valuable?

Usually, yes. The vast majority of colored diamonds are now color treated (if done the correct way this is a permanent process and there’s nothing wrong with it). However, since this is a relatively new product, many consumers are unaware that a large amount of colored diamonds are very low quality.

In order to produce any medium to high quality colored diamond, they must use a nice white diamond to begin with. However, in 90 percent of the colored diamonds they use a poor quality diamond to treat. Why? Simply because it’s cheaper, and they can get away with it.

Due to heavy marketing by chain stores, customers tend not to judge a brown or chocolate diamond in the same way they do a white diamond. Chocolate diamonds are often opaque in color, with heavy inclusions and little to no sparkle, yet consumers have begun to expect this because it’s everywhere. Unfortunately, what you see in a chain store newspaper ad is rarely what you get out of the case.

Higher Quality Brown Diamonds

In the end, a diamond with eye visible inclusions and a lack of brilliance will not look any better once it’s been color treated. A more expensive/valuable white diamond is used to make a vivid golden brown diamond, and a lower quality diamond less than half the price is used to make a grayish brown, less vivid chocolate, or muddy brown diamond.

If you want brown diamonds that have sparkle and a rich golden brown color, or especially if you want a larger single brown diamond as a center stone, you would be better off requesting a cognac color. Compare the differences in quality and decide what looks best to you.

If you like chocolate diamonds, by all means, buy them and enjoy them! When it comes to colored gemstones especially, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. As always, just be conscious of the quality you’re paying for.

Accidental and Fraudulent Grading

A lot of the time a retail jeweler or wholesaler will literally shop for diamonds that are mistakenly or intentionally graded a higher quality than they actually are, so it appears they have great prices.  These diamonds are not worth a dime more than their correct grade would dictate, but since the certification says they’re better quality than they are , it makes them very easy to sell for some extra profit to unsuspecting consumers.

Another common problem is intentionally, or even fraudulently misgraded certified diamonds. Today there are thousands of companies who make diamond certificates, and in order to take business away from the GIA and EGL they will grade diamonds as being better than they actually are.  This ensures that plenty of diamond sellers become and stay their paying customers.

The “Good Guys” Aren’t Perfect

The GIA has long been known as one of the most reputable diamond graders but interestingly enough, they have had their share of problems too.  About 7 years ago they were charged with thousands, if not millions of fraudulently graded diamonds, as some of the grading supervisors were taking kickbacks from the big companies to grade their diamonds better than they actually were.  And, while EGL (USA) and AGS are fairly reliable, EGL (IL) and others are a different story. Diamonds graded by the EGL branch in Israel can easily be four grades lower in quality than the stated grade.

The other well known company is the AGS (American Gem Society). A lot of online diamond vendors and retailers carry AGS certified diamonds and tout them as being one of the strictest grading companies. Well, they might also be saying that because they are paying to be an AGS member and carry their diamonds! When someone pays YOU to carry YOUR diamonds, you may have a slight incentive to grade those diamonds in a way that will benefit your customer (the retailer). I’m not saying they’re not a reputable company, just beware of all the hype.

The Certificate Is Still Important

The certificate IS still important – just not as important as the diamond itself. The other problem with most certificates is that the cut (the most important aspect of a diamond) is usually expressed in measurements or an “overall” grade. While you can try to pick a diamond that is close to the ideal proportions, you can’t actually see how the diamond sparkles without looking at it. There are over 625 different quality combinations that determine the cost of diamond, and not all of these are listed on the certificate. However, they must ALL interact to create a brilliant looking diamond. I have rejected many “ideal” cut diamonds that look horrible!

It’s good to go with a certified diamond and it’s better to go with a trusted jeweler or vendor. If you have the option, ask to compare two diamonds with similar grades and judge for yourself how much a difference in color, clarity, or cut there is.

Here are some more tips for making sure you get the right price on a diamond.

Loose diamonds

The first answer is for a loose diamond, where the only things you’re paying for are the size (carat weight), the color grade (how strong of a white color grade the diamond does or does not have), the clarity grade (how many imperfections are trapped inside the diamond, i.e. dark spots, gas bubbles, white spots, cracks, cloudiness etc.), and most importantly the quality of the cut (how properly the diamond is shaped and how accurately the angles are cut on the diamond so the maximum amount of light and sparkle is created by the stone).  Each of the three categories (cut, color, and clarity) determine approximately one-third of the price of the diamond. Carat weight is a given, the bigger the diamond the more value it has.

With all that being said, the first way to start determining the current value of any diamond is to ONLY compare with sellers of diamonds that you know are honest, straight forward dealers with good word of mouth reputations. If you don’t know any, take the time to ask friends and find some!

When you find a couple of reputable jewelers, compare their prices with the prices of the most expensive diamonds of any same size and quality on any internet list of certified diamonds (certified by the GIA or EGL-USA).  The most expensive diamonds with the same quality grades usually have no undetectable problems or are the most accurately graded. These internet prices along with those from reputable jewelers should all be somewhat similar. This is the single most important way to find the true current value of any diamond, without exception.

A complete diamond ring

The second answer involves having to determine the value of a diamond already mounted in a ring with other side diamonds. Actually, it’s quite simple. You must request the exact weight and quality in writing on an appraisal of the center stone all by itself, and then follow the example I gave above for the loose stone. It is important you know how much you’re paying for the ring and side diamonds versus the center diamond.

Many times not even the jeweler can tell you how the cost breaks down for the center diamond verses the ring.  If the jeweler or salesperson can’t tell you this, it’s time to go to another store. If your jeweler doesn’t know what they’re selling you, you’ll never be able to trust you’re getting an accurate quote on the price vs. quality of the diamond or the ring itself. The details of an accurate appraisal are also very important when it comes to having the same diamond replaced by your insurance in case of loss.

Don’t shoot for TOO low a price

Everyone wants to believe they’re smart enough to search out that fantastic deal, and that type of thinking lays the groundwork for someone to recognize you as a gullible consumer ready to believe anything that will save them a dollar. I cannot even begin to tell you about all the dealers who find every way possible to make you believe you’re getting a better deal than is honestly possible. Read What’s the catch behind the AMAZINGLY low price?

A prime example of this would be all the diamond inventory lists on web sites such as Blue Nile, etc. The prices always start out ridiculously cheap and by the time you’re at the bottom of the list they are a much higher but more realistic price. And, interestingly enough, they’re all the “same quality”. This leaves most people believing they can purchase a diamond for a very cheap price, because they only look at the first few diamonds at the beginning of the list.  Consumers who are a little smarter, however, look at the entire list and need answers as to why there is a such a huge range of prices for the same quality and size of diamond. A large majority of the time the price difference is contributed to how well the diamond is cut (AKA the most important part!). There could also be a number of other hidden problems with diamonds that are graded much cheaper but appear to be the “same quality” on paper.

Check out some of our other posts on Diamonds

No, because…

…a diamond is similar to a new car. Once you purchase it at retail price, you’ll lose out on the mark-up. You won’t be able to sell it at retail, and unfortunately, you might not be able to sell it at wholesale. A diamond broker won’t buy a diamond from you at wholesale when he can buy one for the same price at any time from a supplier.

However, you may be able to sell it to another consumer for somewhere around wholesale or slightly more. We often advise customers to try and sell their jewelry on Ebay or Craig’s List if they want to try and get the most money for it. The problem is that most people don’t want to pay much for “used” diamonds, especially if it’s for an engagement ring. The time you end up spending trying to sell it may not be worth the difference.

Yes, because…

(there are a couple scenarios in which the value of your diamond could grow)

As a long-term investment
My mother bought a 1ct diamond in 1950 for $600 and now she has a diamond worth $8,200.  If she had bought it and wanted to resell it within a year or two, the answer would’ve been “No” …it would’ve only fetched $300.

Maybe so…

In a failing economy
Interestingly, today times are very different.  With the value of paper monies being questioned, and therefore collapsing, people are buying gold and diamonds as safe haven buys which might not collapse in value but actually appreciate.  You might ask yourself, “Who is going to want diamonds and gold if things are falling apart in the world?”

The bigger question is…who will want a piece of paper?

If no one wants that piece of paper, all you can do is burn it to start a fire.  The other items you could of bought with that piece of paper before no one wanted it are called commodities, and have proven their value for thousands of years as forms of trade.

Many cultures use gold jewelry to hedge against the wildly fluctuating currency of their home country.  The very rich people in the world use diamonds as a store of emergency wealth, since you can carry millions of dollars of diamonds easily, as opposed to the same amount in gold.

If you’re looking to MAKE money, invest in the stock market, not diamonds. If you’re looking for a luxury item that will likely hold its value, diamonds are a fairly reliable option.

–Is the ring being sized up or down? How far do you have to go?
–How wide is the ring shank?
–Are there any side diamonds, and how far down the ring are they set?
–Is the center stone tension set or a half bezel (this makes it harder)?

Don’t always go for the CHEAPEST price

Many people are tempted to base their decision of where to go on price alone. As is the case in many other businesses, price is far less important than the reputation of the jeweler.

A simple ring sizing (one of the easiest goldsmithing jobs), if done quickly can result in a ring shank bottom that is of uneven thickness or has a visibly poor polish (should have a mirror finish inside and out). Even worse is the common problem of the repair person wearing the bottom of the ring too thin (the bottom shank should be the same thickness as when you took it in).

In the most common scenario, the bench jeweler is just working too fast and not being careful enough to grind down the spot where the blob of solder was put to size your ring. A good jeweler instructs their repair people to take their time and do a good job and only grind down the area where the sizing was executed, and not grind down the entire bottom of the ring.

There’s another reason you might be subject to low quality repair work, and surprisingly this is something you might never understand without some inside information. Some stores will actually allow their repair people to keep any gold dust they accumulate as a kind of bonus. With today’s gold prices, that’s a pretty good deal. Just not for you and your ring. If the bottom part of the shank looks thinner than when you brought it in, it probably is…and now the bench jeweler’s on vacation.

How can you avoid this?

My advice is to look for an independent jeweler who does the work in-house, and don’t expect it to be done while you wait. Stores with a “one-hour sizing” wait or similar policies are rarely able to do quality work (all jewelry repair work is not created equal). Many places will accommodate customers who request their ring be done in less time, but honestly it is not in your best interest to negotiate this. Most jewelers will sacrifice quality of the work before they sacrifice the sale altogether.

I would say that a reasonable ring sizing is in the neighborhood of $35-$90, and that’s for a less complex ladies ring. With today’s gold prices, sizing a thick men’s band could be closer to $200 and still be reasonable.  Ask your jeweler what type of labor is involved in sizing your particular ring.

Most importantly, take it to a well-known local jeweler you can trust. Word of mouth is powerful and the honest jewelers usually have a good reputation because of it.

4-prong

The main reason people prefer a 4-prong setting is the fact that there is less prongs/metal surrounding the diamond, making it stand out. A 4-prong setting shows off a little more of the diamond and really can pull off a nice look. However, this is the only real advantage to a 4-prong setting.

Another argument commonly brought up is that with less metal surrounding the stone, more light is able to enter into the diamond thus making it brighter and causing the diamond  to sparkle more. This is only partially true. Obviously more light will get through to the bottom and sides of your stone, but this will not have much of an effect on the diamond’s brilliance. Only light which travels in through the top of your stone is reflected back out through the top of your stone. The light that reaches the bottom or sides of your diamond may brighten the stone slightly, but not significantly.

The major disadvantage to a 4-prong setting is the risk of losing your diamond. If you happen to bend just ONE prong back your diamond will likely fall out. With the 4-prong comes great risk, so I would advise anyone who values security over a slight change in appearance to go with a 6-prong.

6-prong

As I just said, the big advantage to a 6-prong setting is the safety factor. You will almost never lose a diamond set in a 6-prong head because even if TWO of the prongs break completely off (which rarely ever happens),  you still have four left to hold the stone in.

You may have a little more metal around your beautiful diamond, but it can be a lot more comforting to see that than to look down and see your $5,000 diamond is missing.

Regardless, you should always have your diamond ring insured. However, do not insure it at the jewelry store where you bought it. Go to your insurance company, and this way you’ll be covered for anything that happens to your ring. Read more about In-Store Warranties and Insurance Policies.

Low quality repair work will usually look unfinished, and here’s a few things you’ll be able to notice.

• Prongs that have been rebuilt will have blobs on the end of them instead of the repairman taking the time to blend the built up area back into the original shape of the prong.
• Plier marks (gouges or scratches) aren’t polished out when the repair is finished.
• Edges of the stone are cracked or chipped from bending the ring too much or using too much pressure when setting the stone.

As I’ve said before, reputation is everything. A consumer can usually find a good local jeweler by searching reviews or asking others who have done business there what their experience was. Unfortunately, this is your only sure way of avoiding the jewelers who perform poor quality repair work.

Also, don’t be disappointed in a jeweler who tells you they can’t repair your ring. At our store we get many of the difficult problems other jewelers don’t know how to solve, like how to re-set delicate or expensive opals and emeralds, or how to rebuild worn structure in rings, etc. The jewelers who choose not to attempt these repair jobs are actually the good jewelers. The bad jewelers are the ones who try to do the repairs regardless of whether they are able to do a good job or not, and fumble up your cherished item, forever.

Just remember, a hunt for the lowest price can lead you into the hands of a jeweler who doesn’t need to charge as much, since he doesn’t take the time to do quality work in the first place.